The Masters


Jeff Ward - IFMGA/AMGA Guide

Jeff Ward is an IFMGA-licensed and AMGA-certified Alpine, Ski and Rock Guide. He grew up in the Northwest and is co-owner of North Cascades Mountain Guides (www.ncmountainguides.com) based in Mazama. Ward is a lead instructor for the American Mountain Guides Association and serves on their technical committee.



Martin Volken - IFMGA Guide

Martin Volken is the founder and owner of Pro Guiding Service and Pro Ski and Mountain Service in North Bend, WA. He is a certified IFMGA Swiss Mountain Guide and guides over 120 days per year in North America and Europe as a ski, rock and alpine guide. Volken has pioneered several steep ski descents, ski traverses, alpine and rock routes in the Washington Cascades. He has been a member of the AMGA examiner team since 2000 and has authored and co-authored three books on ski touring and ski mountaineering.

Got a question about climbing? Submit your question in the Ask the Master forum and either Jeff Ward or Martin Volken will supply the answer.

AMGA GUIDES' TIPS
Anchors: Cleaning Top Rope Anchors
Anchors: Cleaning Top Rope Anchors
 

Ask the Master: Five Essentials You Should Always Carry in the Mountains

02-Aug-2016
By Martin Volken (IFMGA Guide)

What are the five essentials you should always carry in the mountains? —HC, via Ask the Master forum

 

Martin Volken, owner of Pro Guiding Service and Pro Ski and Mountain Service in North Bend, WA, is a certified IFMGA Swiss Mountain Guide and guides in North America and Europe. He has been a member of the AMGA examiner team since 2000.As a mountain guide, my goals are to keep my clients and myself safe, accomplish the objective and keep everyone reasonably comfortable, so I always pack:

1. Appropriate navigation tools. This could be a map, compass, altimeter, a dedicated GPS and or a downloaded map on your smartphone (take good care of your battery life there!).

2. Communication tools, such as a cell phone, sat phone, Spot locater device or VHF radio.

3. A high quality first-aid kit.

4. A little more fuel than you think for overnight trips.

5. The above items are for incident prevention and emergency preparedness. From here, what you pack depends on the objective, so it is hard for me to be too specific. I did develop a packing system that is bundled in threesomes. It is called the “threesome packing helper,” and is meant to help you not forget anything.

  • Maps, compass, altimeter
  • Shovel, probe , transceiver
  • Skins, ski crampons, repair kit
  • Food, drink, extra layer
  • Bivi bag, first aid, cell phone
  • Under layer, mid layer, outer layer
  • Hat, gloves, goggles
  • Sunglasses, sunscreen, sun hat
  • Harness, Ice axe, crampons
  • Rope, Ice screws, rescue-gear kit
  •  

    —Martin Volken


     

    Got a question about climbing? Submit your question in the Ask the Master forum and Martin Volken will supply the answer.

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