Matty Hong made the first repeat of Fat Camp (5.14d) in the Wicked Cave, Rifle, Colorado yesterday. The route is a contender for the hardest climb in the canyon.
“The fall season is here! I'm happy to start it off by climbing the second ascent of Fat Camp (5.14d) bolted by Joe Kinder,” Hong posted on Instagram.
“Lots of climbing still on my mind... Time for some more.”
Kinder equipped the line a few years ago but encouraged others to attempt it. “He graciously left the project open and told Matty Hong and I that he'd
be excited if we tried it, even climbed it!” Cardwell told Rock and Ice back in August. Cardwell and Hong worked out the beta together in
July and began to make progress. On August 9, Cardwell stuck the first ascent and suggested 5.14d for the grade.
“The climb is a pure power-endurance challenge with almost no proper resting positions,” Cardwell said. According to Cardwell, many of the moves on Fat Camp are more difficult than Hong’s notorious Rifle test-piece Bad Girls Club (5.14d),
to the right in the cave. Both lines climb through similar terrain.
Hong, a Colorado native, had already climbed many of Rifle’s hardest routes, such as his first ascent Bad Girls Club, La Cucaracha (5.14c),
Planet Garbage (5.14c) and Planet X (5.14a). In March, he sent his first 5.15a, Chris Sharma’s Papichulo, in Oliana, Spain.
All he needed for Fat Camp were the good Sendtember temps.
Jon Cardwell Finishes Fat Camp (5.14d), Rifle First Ascent
Matty Hong Sends Papichulo (5.15a) in Oliana, Spain
Jon Cardwell Snags Second Ascent of Shadowboxing (5.14d), Rifle