Fresh off the European Lead Championship, Janja
Garnbret of Slovenia and Romain Desgranges of France made stunning performances again this weekend at the first IFSC Lead World Cup of the 2017 season
in Villars, Switzerland.
Desgranges, who won the Euro Lead Championship for men last week, took home yet another gold medal; and Garnbret, who placed fourth in the Euro Championship,
was the only female competitor to top the finals route.
“For me, it’s maybe a little harder this year because I did prepare more for bouldering, but I enjoyed lead … it’s a mental game,” Garnbret said
following the competition. She currently holds third position in the overall world cup bouldering rankings,
with one more competition to go in the bouldering season. With her first place finish in Villars, she’s off to a good start in lead.
Mina Markovic, teammate to Garnbret, took second place in Villars with 42+ points. Markovic also placed second in the European Lead Championship. Anak
Verhoeven of Belgium, who won the European Lead Championship, placed third in Villars with 37+ points.
On the men’s side in Villars, Domen Skofic made for a third Slovenian on the podium. He placed second for men with 37 points, only four points behind Desgranges.
Fedir Samoilov, of the Ukraine, who had qualified for his first world cup finals, rounded out the men’s podium in third with 35+ points.
Representing Team U.S.A. in the lead competition for women, Laurel Melton placed 57th and Jennifer de la Torre placed 58th. Representing the U.S. on the
men’s side, Sean Bailey placed 8th in finals, and Martin Kuhnel came in 60th.
Villars kicked off the 2017 lead world cup season, but it was the third event of the year for speed, following world cup competitions in Chongqing and Nanjing,
China this April. Russia dominated the women’s field, taking four of the top five positions, but couldn’t best France’s Anouck Jaubert. In the final
round, Jaubert took first with a time of 8.22 seconds against Russian climber Iiliia Kaplina, who clocked in at 8.80 seconds. In the small final, Mariia
Krasavina beat her Russian teammate Elizaveta Ivanova with a time of 8.46 seconds to Ivanova’s 8.73.
On the men’s side in the speed competition, Reza Alipourshena of Iran took first with a time of 5.63 seconds against Stanislav Kokorin of Russia with a
time of 6.11 seconds in the final round. In the small final, Vladislav Deulin of Russia beat Italian climber Ludovico Fossali with a time of 5.84 seconds
to Fossali’s 5.94 seconds.
Representing Team U.S.A. in the speed competition for women, Melton, who placed 57th in lead, took 34 in speed; and de la Torre, who placed 58th in lead,
took 35th in speed. No men from the U.S. competed in the speed competition.
The next IFSC Lead and Speed Climbing World Cup will take place in Chamonix, France July 12 and 13. Stay tuned.