• Can Sleeping on Your Rope Cause Damage?
  • Will Dog Urine Harm My Rope?
  • What's the Point of Spotting Highball Boulder Problems?
  • Closet Car: Is it Safe to Store Climbing Gear in Your Vehicle?
  • Do Twists in a Figure-8 Knot Reduce Its Safety?
  • Can a Belay Device Jam Open?
  • Marking the Middle of a Rope
  • Fitting Rock Shoes to Problematic Feet
  • Defining the Cheater Stick and Stick Clip
  • When Your Partner Steals Your Gear...
  • Can You Climb on a Wet Rope?
  • Can You Decrease Fall Factor?
  • Should You Be Allowed to Practice Lead Falls in the Gym?
  • Rope Certifications: Twins, Doubles, or Both?
  • Are Cam Placements Compromised in Wet Rock?
  • What's the Correct Way to Girth Hitch to Your Harness?
  • Choosing Ice Screw Length
  • The Holding Power of Nuts
  • Should You Clip the Belay As Your First Lead Pro?
  • Should I Worry About Spinning Bolt Hangers?
  • Belay-Loop Myth
  • Rock Cleaning Made Easy
  • More, on the EDK
  • Why Not Clip Directly to Cam-Stem Loops?
  • Can You Recommend A Self-Release Knot?
  • What's The Protocol For Naming a Route After Yourself?
  • Is Dropped Gear Still Safe?
  • Can Ropes and Slings Be Contaminated By Essential Oils?
  • Is It Okay to Wear Socks with Rock Climbing Shoes?
  • How Should You Test Gear Placements?
  • Can You Use Adhesive Tape on Ropes, Cords, Webbing?
  • A Better EDK?
  • What's the Difference Between a Double and a Single Rope?
  • Does It Count As a Free Ascent If You Grab the Anchor?
  • Can You Use Cams As Passive Pro?
  • I Found a Rope - Is it Safe to Use?
  • Am I Using a Daisy Chain Wrong?
  • Should I Buy a Plastic or Foam Helmet?
  • Why Doesn't Anyone Climb in Knickers Anymore?
  • Is Weight or Range More Important in Cams?
  • The Mysterious Phenomenon of Rope Shrinkage
  • Worst-Case Scenario - A Factor 2 Fall
  • The Trouble With Glue-In Bolts
  • The Nuts and Bolts of Nuts and Bolts
  • Why Are Climbing Shoes So Expensive?
  • Flaws in the Yosemite Decimal System
  • How Durable is Trad Gear?
  • Using Super Glue on Your Fingers
  • The Worst Gear Ever Invented
  • Rap Ring Strength
  • Spinners and Losers
  • Why Do People Use Oval Biners?
  • Is it Ethical to Clean a New Route?
  • Aid Climbing = Moped Riding
  • Cam Care and Maintenance Guide
  • Will Sweat Harm My Harness?
  • Should You Use Rope or Webbing to Connect to an Anchor?
  • Choosing Between C4s and Friends
  • Can You Lead On a Static Rope?
  • Can I Use Climbing Bolts For Anchors in a Gym?
  • Are My Modified Crampons Safe?
  • Are Falls Held or Breaking Strength More Important In a Rope?
  • Does Poop Harm a Climbing Rope?
  • Are Homemade Draws Reliable?
  • Shopping for Economy Carabiners
  • When You Fly, Can You Carry On Climbing Gear?
  • Can I Trust Fixed Draws?
  • Which Helmet WIll Fit My Big Head?
  • Are Adjustable Leg Loops Useful?
  • Should I clip Ice Screws with Screamers?
  • How do I Make a Bomber Anchor?
  • Can I Modify my Crampon Without Compromising the Integrity?
  • How to Place Ice Tools and Crampons - Will Gadd's Tips
  • How to Place Ice Screws - Will Gadd's Tips
  • Hot Versus Cold Forging
  • Caring For Your Fingertips
  • Are Sewn Slings Stronger Than Knotted Ones?
  • When to Replace Climbing Webbing
  • Using Grip Dip To Color Code Gear
  • The Benefits of Cotton
  • How to Pull a Rappel Rope
  • How to Properly Orient a Carabiner Gate
  • Are My Fuzzy Quickdraws Safe?
  • How to Stretch Climbing Shoes
  • Are 1/2-inch bolts really better than 3/8-inch?
  • Should I Resole My Rock Shoes?
  • How to Hand Drill
  • Lonely Climber Looking for Woman
  • Is My Invented Knot Safe?
  • Difference Between Double and Twin Ropes
  • Dealing With an Argumentative Partner
  • Will Antifreeze Ruin Rope?
  • Why Is a Rack Called a Rack?
  • Rock Shoes For a Big Guy
  • Do They Kill Geese To Get Down?
  • How to Wash a Rope
  • Do Cam Teeth Do Anything?
  • Can I Fix Delaminated Rock Shoes?
  • Can I Mix a Static With a Dynamic Rope for Rappelling?
  • Should You Lower Or Rap Through Anchors?
  • How Should The Middle Man Tie In?
  • How Do I Get a Good Climbing Man?
  • Do Falls Weaken Bolts?
  • Should I Rope Solo?
  • Should I Angle Ice Screws Down?
  • How Should Old Climbers Train?
  • Can I Make a Belay Loop?
  • Reusing Ice Screw Holes
  • Overcoming the Fear of Falling
  • Choosing a Stove Fuel
  • Will My Hiking Boots Work With Crampons?
  • Do Heavy People Shock Load the Rope?
  • Can Offset Cams Subsitute for Regular Cams?
  • Can I Resling My Cams Myself?
  • Are Older Alien Cams Safe?
  • Will sports drinks freeze more slowly than water?
  • The Truth About Climbing Supplements
  • Can I Make My Leashed Tools, Leashless?
  • Rope Stretch Facts
  • How To Cut a Rope Without a Knife
  • Secrets of the Toprope
  • How to Sharpen Crampons
  • Should I Become a Climbing Guide?
  • Preventing Climbing Rope Wear
  • How to Remove an Old Bolt
  • How to Customize Ice Tool Picks
  • Double Rope Facts
  • Do It Yourself Fruit Boots
  • Climbing Rope Sheath Slippage
  • Rockfall Safety
  • Do Screamers Work?
  • Climbing Skin Care
  • Selecting a Gym Rope
  • Quick Links for Climbing
  • Are Russian Cams Good?
  • When To Retire Climbing Gear and Ropes
  • Should I Get a Link Cam?
  • How to Get a Climbing Mate
  • Using Steel Carabiners for Fixed Quickdraws
  • Petzl Tibloc and Climbing Rope Sheath Damage
  • Overcoming Anger
  • Fixing a Spinning Bolt
  • Video Spotlight
    Joe Kinder On the First Ascent of Bone Tomahawk (5.14d/5.15a)
    Joe Kinder On the First Ascent of Bone Tomahawk (5.14d/5.15a)
    Whipper of the Month
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    Weekend Whipper: Alastair McDowell's Los Indignados (M7) Screamer

    Should I Buy a Plastic or Foam Helmet?


    I am looking for a helmet, but don't know whether I should buy a plastic or foam helmet. I am a weekend warrior, lead 5.11 sport and trad and do some ice. What should I get?

    —jimbo via rockandice.com

    The good ol’ plastic brain bucket.To enter the world of climbing helmets is to step into a realm as unknowable as the fifth dimension. Theoretically, we think that helmets will help keep us safe, but no one knows to what extent—there’s no comprehensive body of data that proves one way or the other the benefits of a helmet. Even in the multi-billion-dollar world of professional football, the protection offered by the various helmet designs is a hot topic and even the clinical definition of a concussion debatable.

    We do know that no blow to the head is good, and that a helmet could prevent or minimize head injuries and likely save lives. Certainly there is no harm in wearing one, so why not?

    My hunch is that some helmets probably don’t offer the protection that their wearer believes they provide. A helmet, for instance, may have been designed to barely pass the CE test and might not offer much side protection since the CE does not require helmets to be tested in full side-impact mode. Since most rock climbers are more likely to bang the sides of their heads in a fall rather than be struck on the crown by a falling object, certain high-cut models might be little more than glorified pith helmets.

    You didn’t ask whether I believe in helmets, but I do, so long as I am wearing the best one I can find.

    There are three types of helmets: plastic, foam and hybrid.

    PLASTIC. These have a hard plastic shell and a nylon webbing suspension much like you’d find in an old army pot helmet. Plastic helmets are heavy—mine weighs a solid pound—but also the cheapest and most durable. These are the old standards, and were once common for ice climbing where you often get clocked in the head by ice. Plastic helmets can take a beating and keep on protecting you, at least from impacts from above. For side impacts, a plastic helmet can bend inward and transmit most of the impact directly to your head. For that reason and market demands, plastic helmets have largely been discontinued by the major players.

    HYBRID. Think hard-boiled egg. These helmets have a plastic shell with a foam “EPs” lining similar to or exactly like the stuff used to make styrofoam coolers. Hybrids weigh around 10 ounces and cost about $60. With a hybrid helmet, the foam sits directly on your head and the webbing harness does not have a true structural function. On impact, the foam shell breaks, absorbing energy. Hybrid helmets aren’t as durable as plastic, but do weigh a lot less. Durability is good as long as you do not pack hard items inside the helmet. Depending on how far the foam comes down the sides, a hybrid helmet can offer better side, front and back impact protection than a plastic helmet, although some hybrids are cut alarmingly high above the ears and forehead.

    FOAM. These have a foam body of expanded polystyrene with a thin plastic coating, usually polycarbonate, to protect the foam. These weigh around 8 ounces and cost upwards of $100. As with a hybrid helmet, the foam sits directly on your head. Foam helmets are the least durable and bang up quickly if you just toss them around like a slob. Yet I prefer them because they are lighter, and the ones I have look like they would do well in a side-impact situation, such as what you might encounter in a tumbling sport-climbing fall. Most climbers will find that a hybrid will serve them well in all situations.

    Relatively new to the market are the Black Diamond Vapor and the Petzl Sirocco. Both are foam, but use the latest technology to make them even lighter than all other models—and also more expensive. Both are worth a serious look and I expect to soon see some of their innovations trickle down to the less expensive models.

    If you do choose a foam or hybrid helmet, carefully read the manufacturer’s notices. most manufacturers advise against using their foam or hybrid models in temperatures below four degrees, when the foam can become brittle, or above 95, when the foam can soften. It’s also not a good idea to put stickers on a foam helmet, as the adhesive can adversely react with the shell. Take care not to sit on a foam helmet and carefully pack it away from hard objects such as cams, crampons and ice tools, which can cut or ding the precious foam.

    Last, a helmet won’t do jack squat if you haven’t fit it correctly. Get it too loose and it can shift and expose your head. That doesn’t sound good, does it? Fit your helmet snugly and cinch down the chinstrap until the helmet no longer moves about. Next!


    This article was published in Rock and Ice issue 209.


    GOT A QUESTION? E-mail Gear Guy! rockandicegearguy@gmail.com

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